It has been two weeks of contrast indeed, but that's what I meant it to be.

A trip to Lake Shiwa

First I set out with a group of friends to Badakhshan, to the entrance of the Wakhan corridor , in the north east of Afghansitan. Our destination was the mountain lake Shiwa. After fiveteen hours of driving we reached Faizabad, a small dusty mountain town with a sizable bazaar, however.

The road from Kabul to Kishim is very good these days, but right after Kishim it's rubble again all the way to Faizabad. Now, however, USAid is building the road on this stretch and in a couple of years all this will be paved as well. For now, however, we were held up several times because of road works and explosions being condcuted to widen the road.

We spent the night in Faizabad in a small hotel where we were also able to rent tents for our days at the lake. The hotel is basic yet comparatively clean. It doesn't have the advertised 24h electricity and no airconditioning which would have certailnly come in handy given the rather sizzling temperatures outside which much exceeded Kabul's. But we had to make due with fans only, a fridge which didn't work and only cold water in the shower. 40US$ for that were a bit steep.

The next day we were enlightened that we had to pay 7US$ at the police station for receiving a police clearance for going to the lake. Going to the Wakhan itself would have cost 50$ per foreigner, mind you - locals go free. Interesting. My personal opinion is this: like most things attached to offical dealings in Afghansitan this is bull shit. There was a police check further up the road outside of Faizabad but they didn't even ask about this letter and thereafter we didn't need it either.

So after wasting two hours at the police station we finally set off towards Lake Shiwa. After 1 hour past Faizabad the road soon turns into the mountains and one begins to climb. Soon one reaches the tree line and then there is nothing but rough, boulder-filled mountains. While it sounds dull, it actually isn't at all. The mountains are dramatic and the drops are steep. One shouldn't attempt this drive with anything less than a well-serviced solid 4-wheel drive.

After some 3 hours we reached the Shiwa plateau which is comparatively green with water coming down from the surrounding mountains everywhere. It soaks the plateau and little ravines can be seen everywhere. As a result there are herds of sheep spread out all over.

It took us another three hours to reach the lake but the view which presented us there certainly made the trip worthwhile.- As I got out from the care to take a photo of the lake peeking around a corner I suddenly noticed that it had turned fairly chilly and instantly regretted that I hadn't brought a winter jacket. My small cardigan wasn't going to do the job. It was quite incredible compared to the heat of Faizabad.

Some half an hour later we found our camping spot. Close to the entrance of the lake there were a few stone walls erected to herd animals. The "rooms" they formed made ideal spots to erect our tents and at the same time protect us from the wind which always started blowing in the afternoon. Three sleeping tents and one for cooking. We had stocked up on drinks, pasta, fruits and meat - generally easy things to cook on a bunsen burner. We had brought cooking gear, too.

So after settling in we cooked our first dinner and then enjoyed it under a full moon but slightly chilly wind which made us retire to our tends fairly soon.

The next morning I woke up at 5.30. The sun was already on the horizon and started to peek over the mountains. The lake was dead quiet, not the slightest wind - no sound of civilisation. I couldn't help but sit in my tent for several minutes just enjoying this beauty.

After breakfast we took a long hike around the lake with one more spectacular views around each turn. The calm lake was like a mirror reflecting the surrounding mountains. The walkway winds up and down, sometimes touching the beach of the lake, sometimes meeting a rock cliff fifty meters above the lake.

After we returned we were ready for a nap. When we all gathered back together it was late afternoon - coffee, wine and cooking time.

Beforet that, however, I walked down to the lake to simply dangle my feed into the water. But at a water temperature of no more than 10C the dangling didn't take long. The wind had picked up again in the afternoon and the mirror of the lake had disappeared. But with the temperatures still quite high during the day, the wind made for a welcome refreshment.

The next day we had to head back already as one of my fellow travelers had urgent matters to attend to in Kabul. We decided to drive all the way to Kunduz the first day so we called it an early night in order to be able to get up early the next morning.

We arrived in Kunduz at about 8pm and checked into the Kunduz Hotel. While the prices had remained the same compared to two years prior the service had decreased even further. There was a dirty towel in my room, the fan was plugged in with two lose wires and there was no key for my rooms front door. Only my bedroom could be locked, while the access to the bathroom remained open ... There was no food service and when we asked for some hot water the next morning for our instant coffee they said it would take half an hour to prepare. Not something we were prepared to wait for in return! 60US$ for that is unacceptable. Problem is - there is not much more choice in Kunduz if it comes to accomodation.

Off to Dubai for some R & R

Two days after my arrival back in Kabul I set off to Dubai for some shopping and 5 star therapy. This time I had chosen the Samaya Hotel near the Dubai Creek. A very new hotel, this place is really great - modern 5 star luxary. While a spa is missing they do have a gym and a very nicely designed - albeit small - pool on the roof.

I don't come to Dubai for anything else but shopping, spa and nail treatment. Anyway at this time of the year it is too hot to leave a mall or hotel during the day. 45C is simply a killer.

And then my man came to join me there one day after my arrival. We spent two more beautiful days together, just enjoying the ease, comfort and privacy of a break like this